Sonntag, 17. Juni 2007

Kevins Tag in den Minen...

Der Trip startete am Mercado de los Mineros, auf dem sich die Minenarbeiter mit allem was sie für die Arbeit brauchen eindecken. Es ist weltweit der einzige Markt auf dem man legal Dynamit und Ammoniumnitrat erwerben kann. Gleich daneben stehen dann riesige Säcke mit Coca und billiger, bis zu 96%iger Trinkalkohol… Als Tourist kann man diese Sachen als Geschenke für die mineros kaufen. Nachdem ich mich mit dem Wichtigsten eingedeckt hatte ging es hinauf zu den kooperativen Minen. Das sind viele kleine Minen, die von kleinen Gruppen von mineros betrieben werden, welche dann das Rohmaterial an die Minengesellschaft verkaufen.
Ich hatte das Glück zufällig eine Einzelführung zu bekommen. Oben angekommen ging es gleich durch einen kleinen Eingang direkt in den Berg. Da zu Mittag ein großes Fest der Minenarbeiter anstand war zum Glück in den Gängen und Schächten wenig Betrieb, was den Aufenthalt drinnen angenehmer machte, da weniger Staub in der Luft war – Belüftung gibt es nämlich keine. Trotzdem war das Ganze kein Spaziergang: Die Gänge sind oft nur einen Meter hoch, manchmal nicht breiter als 40cm, es ist finster und man klettert ohne Sicherung ständig irgendwo herum. Man muss aufpassen, dass man sich nicht dauernd den Kopf an irgendwelchen Vorsprüngen anstößt oder gar in ein Loch im Boden ein oder mehrere Stockwerke tiefer stürzt. Die Gänge verlaufen genau entlang der Adern und sind deshalb alles andere als gerade bzw. eben.
Den wenigen mineros die arbeiteten, konnte ich zusehen und auch selber einmal probieren was diese Männer hier tagtäglich leisten. Auf dem Weg nach draußen opferten wir noch ein paar Cocablätter bei den in den Minen befindlichen Statuen von Pachamama und Tío.
Tío ist eine teufelsähnliche Gottheit, der unter Tag gehuldigt wird. Die Minenarbeiter glauben, dass ihnen Gott unter der Erde nicht helfen kann und wenden sich darum an den Teufel. Ihm wird jeden Tag bei Arbeitsbeginn entweder eine brennende Zigarette als Gabe in den Mund gesteckt oder es werden ihm ein paar Cocablätter geopfert.
Endlich wieder am Tageslicht durfte ich nun meine am Mercado de los Mineros gekaufte Stange Dynamit verschießen!!!!! Geiler Rumps!!!!!!!!!!!
Währenddessen waren die Vorbereitungen für das Fest schon im vollen Gange. Jede Mine hatte einige Lamas vor dem Eingang angebunden, die später an Pachamama und an Tío geopfert werden sollten. Wie mir mein Guide Sol (span. Sonne) erzählte findet dieses Fest nur einmal im Jahr statt. Und als sie mir anbot noch länger am Berg zu bleiben um beim Fest dabei sein zu können musste ich natürlich zusagen. Sie war froh darüber, da sie Geschmack am Bier und der netten Gesellschaft gefunden hatte.
Als nach langem Warten endlich der Chef der vereinten Minen, der das Opferritual leitete eintraf, begann die Zeremonie mit rituellem Cocakauen. Danach wurden die Lamas für die Schlachtung vorbereitet. Es ist wirklich kein schöner Anblick, wenn 5 Männer auf einem Hilfe suchenden Lama knien und diesem dann mit einem mehr oder weniger scharfen Messer die Kehle aufgesäbelt wird. Bei jedem geopferten Lama wurde eine Stange Dynamit verschossen – am ganzen Berg hat es pausenlos gerumpst! Es ist schon unheimlich, wenn man bedenkt, dass jede der vielen Detonationen ein totes Lama bedeutet…Das Blut der geschlachteten Tiere wurde mit Tellern und Schüsseln aufgefangen und von den Minenarbeitern auf den Eingang ihrer Mine gespritzt. Ab dem Zeitpunkt der Schlachtung darf keiner mehr die Mine betreten, da diese Person sonst von Pachamama und Tío auch als Opfergabe gesehen werden würde und kurz darauf sterben müsste.
Nachdem beide Lamas unserer Mine geschlachtet waren wurden Kopf, Beine und Innereien entfernt und in einer Scheibtruhe als Opfergaben aufgebahrt.
Danach ging das Feiern richtig los: Das Essen wurde vorbereitet und Bier und billiger Alkohol flossen in Strömen. Und mitten in diesem Treiben saß ich, als einziger Tourist, und feierte kräftig mit! Je später es wurde umso lauter wurde es am Berg: In der Mine unter uns spielte eine Musikkapelle auf, Dynamit wurde wie Schweizerkracher geschossen und alle am Berg waren in Partystimmung.
Als das Essen (Lama mit Kartoffeln) fertig war wurden noch die Opfergaben am Mineneingang vergraben und dann konnte das große Fressen beginnen. Zuerst bekamen die mineros zu Essen, aber da 2 Lamas ganz schön viel Fleisch haben fiel auch für den Touristen noch eine Riesenportion ab.
Nach dem Essen wurde es aber Zeit aufzubrechen, da mich Marita schon seit 14 Uhr zurückerwarte.
Mit vollem Bauch und leichtem Dusel stolperten wir im Dunkeln den Berg hinunter wo mich Marita schon verzweifelt erwartete.
Alles in allem ein teilweise schockierender, aber trotzdem genialer Tag!

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