Freitag, 10. September 2010

Ägypten: Siwa Oase





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Siwa ist eine der abgelegensten Oasen Ägyptens. Im Radius von über 300km ist keine nennenswerte Siedlung und absolut nichts außer, Sand, Sand und noch mehr Sand...Wenn man nach Siwa kommt, nach stundenlanger Busfahrt durch die Wüste, hat man das Gefühl auf einer Insel gelandet zu sein. Es gibt hier immer noch mehr Eselskarren, als motorisierte Fahrzeuge, die Männer tragen blütenweiße Galabias und die Frauen sind komplett verschleiert, so dass man nicht einmal die Augen sieht, Dattelpalmen erstrecken sich bis zum Horizont und die kleinen, traditionellen Lehmhäuser verschmelzen praktisch mit den Ruinen der alten Festung Siwas.
Obwohl Siwa 20km breit und 80km lang ist spielt sich doch alles ziemlich im Zentrum ab und die wichtigsten Sehenswürdigkeiten sind alle halbwegs nahe beieinander. Da es uns zu teuer war ein Fahrrad auszuleihen starteten wir halt per pedes los. Siwa war seit jeher ein Handelszentrum, weshalb man auch heute noch viele alte Ruinen der einstigen Tempel und Festungen sieht. Zu einem der berühmtesten frühen Touris, die Siwa besuchten gehörte Alexander der Große, der vom hiesigen Orakel erfuhr, dass er der Sohn von Zeus ist (was ihm wieder die offizielle Legitimation gab Herrscher über Ägypten zu werden). Diesem Orakeltempel statteten wir natürlich einen Besuch ab (auch wenn da heute keine Vaterschaftstests mehr gemacht werden). Wir wanderten stundenlang durch die Dattelpalmenhaine und schlugen uns die Bäuche mit den leckeren, picksüßen Früchten voll, schwammen in einer der Süßwasserquellen für die Siwa so berühmt ist und streunten durch die kleinen Gassen der alten Festung Shali, die im Zentrum von Siwa auf einem kleinen Hügel liegt.
Diese Oase hat echt etwas sehr magisches und relaxtes.
Siwa ist sicher das ganze Jahr über sehr ruhig...doch im Ramadan ist dieses Nest unter Tags praktisch komatös. Alle Leute verkriechen sich in ihren Häusern, fast alle Geschäfte sind geschlossen und kein einziges Restaurant hat geöffnet. Erst nach Sonnenuntergang erwacht die Oase zum Leben. Die Geschäfte sperren auf, die Shishacafés räumen ihre Tische und Stühle auf die Straße und bereiten die Pfeiffen vor, die ersten Restaurants bereiten Essen zu und die Straßen füllen sich mit Menschen. Es war für uns unmöglich unter Tags was zu Essen aufzutreiben, ein offenes Internetcafé zu finden oder mal wo einen Tee zu trinken. Den Tag verbrachten wir also meist mit unproduktivem Nichtstun (weil es einfach nichts zu tun GAB) und in der Nacht konnten wir nicht schlafen, weil da die Oase zum vollen Leben erwachte – Bauarbeiten um 3 in der Früh sind nicht unbedingt schlaffördernd.
Nach 2 Tagen in der Oase, nachdem wir den Großteil der Sehenswürdigkeiten gesehen hatten, beschlossen wir also wieder zurück nach Kairo zu fahren, wo sowohl die Futtersituation als auch die Internetlage bedeutend besser ist. Hier saßen wir nun die letzten Tage bis zu unserem Flug aus, schrieben an der Aktualisierung, schlugen uns die Bäuche mit billigen Sandwiches voll und plauderten mit den vielen anderen Reisenden, die sich auf der gemütlichen Dachterrasse des Hotels versammeln.
Während wir hier in Kairo auf unseren Flug warten, sind Kevins Eltern schon auf dem Weg nach Istanbul. Mit ihnen werden wir dann die nächsten Monate in ihrem Wohnmobil durch die Türkei, Griechenland und Italien reisen. Nicht mehr lange, dann kann Kevin seine Eltern, nach fast 4 Jahren wieder in die Arme schließen! Wir freuen uns echt schon riesig auf diesen neuen Reiseabschnitt!

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