Bei unserem zweiten Phnom Penh Aufenthalt hatten wir etwas mehr Zeit und machten das volle Sightseeingprogramm. Wir schauten uns die Altstadt, einen Tempel und den Königspalast (nur von außen, weil der Eintrittspreis im letzten Jahr verdoppelt worden ist) an. Um das ganze kulinarisch ein wenig abzurunden streunten wir auch durch alle großen Märkte der Stadt und kosteten uns ein wenig durch die lokale Küche.
Am nächsten Tag kam dann der heftige Teil des Sightseeingprogramms – das S21 Hochsicherheitsgefängnis. Hier verhörten und ermordeten die Roten Khmer während ihres 4 Jahre dauernden Terrorregimes die „Feinde des Volkes“. Hier eine Kurzfassung der Geschichte: Im April 1975 übernahmen die ultrakommunistischen Roten Khmer die Macht im vom Bürgerkrieg geplagten Kambodscha und wollten es in ein riesiges kommunistisches Reisfeld verwandeln (Agrarkommunismus). Unter dem Vorwand dass die Amerikaner die Stadt bombardieren würden evakuierten sie Phnom Penh und trieben die Leute aufs Land. Bei diesem „Langen Marsch“ starben viele tausend Menschen, vor allem Alte, Kranke und Kinder. Die Überlebenden mussten in schwarzer Einheitstracht unter Bedingungen wie im Arbeitslager auf den Feldern arbeiten. Die Städte wurden verlassen, Geld abgeschafft und gebildete Leute wurden als Feinde des Volkes bezeichnet und meist ohne Verhandlung ermordet. Sogar Brillenträger oder Leute mit Fremdsprachenkenntnissen liefen Gefahr einfach festgenommen zu werden und dann zu verschwinden… Ärzte, Politiker, Lehrer, Techniker,…alles Feinde des Volkes!
Und das, in einer ehemaligen Schule untergebrachte, S21 Gefängnis war eines der wichtigsten „Werkzeuge“ um diese Verräter loszuwerden. Hier wurden die „Feinde des Volkes“ so lange gefoltert und umerzogen bis sie ihre „Verbrechen“ gestanden. Dieses Geständnis wurde genauestens dokumentiert und die Schuldigen dann ermordet!
Irgendwie kriegt man die Geschichte „1984“ von George Orwell nicht aus dem Kopf wenn man das alles sieht und liest…
Etwas mitgenommen von dem Gesehenen ließen wir das restliche Sightseeing bleiben… das Denkmal bei einem der Massengräber mussten wir uns jetzt nicht unbedingt anschauen…
Nach einem Tag Erholung zogen wir wieder weiter – nach Siem Reap und zu den Ruinen von Angkor, einem ruhmreicheren Kapitel in der Geschichte Kambodschas.
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